'Ol Dave's Woodshop - Where woodworkers are not all Pros  

'Ol Dave's Woodshop - Where woodworkers are not all Pros
                                                                   "Where woodworkers are not all Pros"
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Hallway Mirror Logo
After completing the remodeling of our family room, I had discovered that there was a space between the side of the French doors and the corner of the room that just needed something to make this space "look right".  I found a plan for a wall hung mirror that had a lower shelf and two small drawers that appeared in the March 2010 issue of Wood Magazine, Number 196.  I thought this would be a perfect piece for that space and would provide us with a convenient place to put our keys when we came through the entry door into the house.  At any rate, here is the finished product and the complete build process that  follows.
Finished hallway mirror after mounting on the wall.
Although the plan in the magazine called for using cherry, I decided to use red oak to make the case because the trim that we used throughout the room was made from red oak and I wanted the mirror to match that particular wood.

Cutting rabbets on one of the frame stiles.I started out by ripping the rails and stiles as well as the two corner blocks at the top of the frame to 2 1/4" widths as called for in the plan. 
I then took the stiles and rails to the router table and cut 1/2" wide by 1/2" deep rabbets in them to accommodate the eventual mirror that would be placed in the completed frame.  You can see a picture of that process being done in the photo here on the right.
Cutting rabbets on the ends of the rails.
When the rabbets were finished on all four of the pieces, I needed to cut rabbets on both ends of each of the rails.  They were cut to match the width and depth of the rabbets on the stiles.  You can see the setup of them being cut on my router table in the left photo.

After all the rabbets were cut and the pieces were final sanded, I laid the rails and stiles face down on the flat surface of my table saw side table and glued them in place and clamped them to dry. You can see the clamped up frame in the left photo below and the dried frame after unclamping it in the lower right photo.
Clamped up mirror frame.
Mirror frame after removing from clamps.

The next step was to drill a 1/2" diameter hole at the top (and on the back side) of the two stiles to accommodate the eventual mounting of keyhole hangers that would be used to mount the mirror on the wall.  I didn't get a picture of this operation though.....sorry about that!

I then moved on to cutting the mirror top, cap and lower shelf to size.  After completion of this step, I mounted a 1/2" cove bit into my router at the router table and used this setup to make coves under the front and ends of the mirror top.  Then I retrieved the corner blocks for the top of the frame and used this same router table setup to make coves at the bottom of these two blocks.

After the coves were made on these pieces (and they were final sanded), I glued them up and clamped them together in two different steps.  The first step was to clamp the top and cap together and to the frame top.  That can be seen in the left photo below.  When this had dried and been unclamped, I glued up the top blocks just below the top and cap and onto the stiles as shown in the right photo below.
View showing clamp up of the top and cap to the frame. View showing top blocks being clamped to the frame.

Completed top frame assembly.
The final step in making the frame consisted of the glueup of the bottom shelf to the bottom of the frame.  I used the same setup on the router table as was used on the top cap to make a cove around the underside of the shelf.  After gluing the shelf to the bottom of the frame, I used four screws from under the shelf and into the frame to reinforce the joint.  The photo on the right shows a view of the frame after this was completed.

The next step was to move on to making the case for the lower drawers.  After cutting the case top, bottom and sides to size, I set up my router table with a straight sided bit and routed a 1/4" deep rabbet at the same thickness as the top and bottom pieces on the top & bottom of the side pieces.  

After completion, I changed the depth of the setting to the same thickness as the paneling I was going to use for the back of this "box" and routed the back edges of all the pieces.  I made a box divider to be used in the final assembly, sanded all the pieces to 220 grit and set them aside for later.

Attaching brackets to drawer case top.
To support the final box, I needed to make a couple of brackets to support the bottom of the box.  When this was completed, I used a countersinking pilot bit and mounted the finished brackets to the bottom side of the box bottom using glue and screws.  You can see what this looked like after the clamping in the photo here on the left.

I then assembled the remaining pieces of the case, glued and clamped them to the supporting bracket assembly as shown in the left photo below.  In the right photo below, you can see that I had previously routed a dado at the center for the drawer divider and glued it in place.
Clamping main drawer case to bracket assembly. Clamping glued up drawer divider into case.

Clamping lower ddrawer case assembly to upper frame assembly.
When things had dried and were unclamped, I set the completed drawer case assembly on my workbench.  I spread glue between the top of the lower drawer case top and the bottom of the shelf on the upper frame assembly and clamped these two assemblies together.  The photo on the right shows what all that looked like after the clamping was done.

Completed upper and lower assemblies.

The photo on the left is how everything looked before the actual mirror was installed and the drawers where made and installed.  I ordered a beveled mirror (cut to size) from a local glass supplier and then following the plans, made two drawers to fit into the case.

Stained mirror assembly & drawers.All there was left to do at this point was to stain everything and apply the final finish.  I used Varathane® Golden Oak gel stain and two coats of Minwax® clear satin urethane finish, using #0000 steel wool between the two coats.  The photo here on the right shows the final assembly and drawers after the staining was completed.

This was another fun project for me and, as always, your comments are welcome.


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